Day One – Driving from Hobart to Zeehan via the Lyell Highway
We started our road trip later than expected due to an unfortunate incident the day before (you can read about that here). Leaving at 12:30 pm meant we had just 4 hours and 24 minutes to complete a 4-hour and 22-minute drive before sunset at 4:54 pm.
When travelling this part of Tasmania, especially in winter, it’s best to avoid driving at night—not just because of the winding roads, but also due to abundant wildlife, unpredictable weather, and the general remoteness of the region.
The Drive Begins: Hobart to Tarraleah
We set off from Hobart and were quickly immersed in the ever-changing landscape, passing through small towns like Hamilton and Ouse along the Lyell Highway. This road takes you all the way from Hobart to Strahan, one of the most isolated towns in Tasmania.
Approaching the Tarraleah Forest, we encountered our first seriously winding section of road as the highway snakes down the mountainside toward the river below—home to the Tungatinah Power Station, part of Tasmania’s hydroelectric scheme. The massive pipes running down the hillside are an impressive sight.
But this stretch also brought our first real challenge…
Unexpected Car Trouble (and a Sick Kid)
As we made our way down the winding road, Blake—who often feels queasy in the car—suddenly became very carsick. Despite rarely vomiting, this time she did. We pulled over to manage the situation, but just as we were getting back on the road, the front left wheel made a horrendous screeching noise—like metal grinding on metal.
Already running behind, we were suddenly unsure if we could even continue. The noise had started so suddenly—what had gone wrong?
We carefully nursed the car up the opposite side of the river and found a safe spot well off the highway to inspect. No matter what we did, we couldn’t find anything wrong. The car had recently been serviced, had new brake pads installed, and the rotors inspected—everything should’ve been in good shape.
We ended up jacking up the car and removing the wheel entirely. Still, no obvious issue. Our best guess? A stone or stick had gotten lodged somewhere in the wheel. We were cold, confused, and now standing roadside with zero phone signal, 0°C temperatures, wind whipping our faces, a recovering Blake, and our dog River tied up nearby looking deeply concerned.
Back on the Road to Derwent Bridge
With no better option, we decided to nurse the car to Derwent Bridge, where we could hopefully find phone reception or help if needed. But as soon as we put the wheel back on and drove away, the noise was completely gone.
What!? You’d think we’d feel relieved, but honestly we were now more stressed, more confused, and still unsure if the car was safe. Everything seemed fine—brakes were working, handling was smooth—so we cautiously pushed on.
We made a brief stop at the Hungry Wombat Café at Derwent Bridge (a good road trip stop if you’re passing through), then continued into more remote and rugged terrain.
Into the Wilderness: Derwent Bridge to Queenstown
The next 80 km stretch from Derwent Bridge to Queenstown is one of Tasmania’s most dramatic drives—twisting through the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park and across the West Coast Range. In winter, it’s prone to black ice, snow, and road closures. It’s essential to check conditions before heading into this section.
Not far past the Frenchman’s Cap trailhead, poor Blake was sick again. We pulled over, let her rest, and slowly kept going—now seriously behind schedule.
The Legendary Descent: 99 Bends Into Queenstown
We climbed up Mount Owen just as the sun dipped below the horizon, and made the winding descent into Queenstown via the infamous “99 Bends”. This notorious road is packed with hairpin turns, and requires full concentration, even in daylight—let alone at dusk.
By this point, Blake had fallen asleep from exhaustion (thankfully), and we carefully navigated the final descent.
Zeehan at Last: Cold, Dark, and Grateful
With only about 40 minutes to go, we pushed on from Queenstown to Zeehan. The road—now the Zeehan Highway—remained twisty and narrow, and at night, it was pitch black with only headlights to guide us. Full concentration was needed.
We finally reached Zeehan at around 5:30 pm, cold, bleary-eyed, and exhausted—but we made it.
Where We Stayed: The Wilds Zeehan
We pulled into our stunning Airbnb, The Wilds Zeehan, and were met with a toasty warm interior and cosy beds. Huge thanks to our lovely host Renee, who has done an incredible job renovating this gorgeous miner’s cottage. If you’re looking for accommodation on Tasmania’s west coast, this is a brilliant option—warm, inviting, and super comfortable.
What a Ride!
After a long, dramatic day full of unexpected events, we made some dinner, poured a glass of wine, and said cheers to making it to the Wild West of Tasmania. Not the smoothest journey, but definitely one we won’t forget.
Tips for Travelling Tasmania’s West Coast in Winter
Start early: Roads are long and winding—leave enough time to avoid driving at night.
Check road conditions: Especially between Derwent Bridge and Queenstown.
Fuel up early: Service stations are few and far between.
Pack for cold weather: Even if it’s sunny when you leave Hobart.
Motion sickness supplies: Essential if you're travelling with kids.
Avoid driving after dusk: Wildlife is very active and visibility is low.
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Next Up: Exploring Queenstown and Strahan
Ready to see what we got up to next?
Read Day 2 as we explore the mining town of Queenstown and take in the charm of Strahan.
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